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Never Forget Paddy Finn!

The summer sun is beating down on the small town of Clara, County Offaly, in Ireland. On sunny days, the intensity of the humidity makes it unbearable to stay outside for more than an hour straight. It’s June 25th, 2019, and I entertain myself with yard work at the Railway Cottage, a stone cottage built in the 1800s for railway workers. It was at one time a very sturdy structure that housed local families for decades. The cottage now stands almost decrepit after years of neglect from its current owner, with only the walls and foundation still completely intact.

I am feeling exhausted after spending hours outside completing minor home improvement projects. Between ripping off invasive vines that were eating away at the walls and trimming the tall bushes along the driveway, I feel like I accomplished a lot for today. I don’t pay any attention to the time, but it can’t be any later than 3:00pm. When there’s no rigid work or school schedule to abide by, there’s no practical reason to watch the clock. I hide under the outside umbrella as I bandage my scraped and bleeding knuckles. I want to leave the cottage for a minute and seek refuge from the midday sun. I grab my book about Irish bird folklore and head towards the town center with no set destination in mind.

Seven hundred ninety steps and six hundred meters later, I wander into Baggot’s Back Door. I order an iced tea, snag a barstool along the bar counter under the air vent, and begin to decompress. I hear someone nearby ask me a question. It takes my eyes a moment to adjust to the dim lighting and another moment to register who is talking to me. The lad seated three chairs down from me asks me where I’m from. I grin and ask him, “How do you know I’m not from here?” He laughs heartily, saying, “I’ve lived here all my life, I would know. Your accent gives you away. You could pass for Irish if you didn’t speak.” I laugh politely at his remark and begin to open my book. The lad orders me a pint of Guinness and tells me, “My name’s Paddy Finn, never forget!” I raise my glass and thank him for the pint.

Paddy is 1.82m (6 feet) tall, has greying hair, and speaks with an orotund voice. When Paddy talks, I can’t hear anything else in the place including the music by Flogging Molly playing in the background. I straighten my posture in an attempt to make myself taller and meet his height sitting down. No amount of adjustment can make up for the height difference. Paddy politely asks me if I’m staying at the Railway Cottage, and I confirm. Everyone in town knows where others live based on the name of the house. No places in Clara have numerical addresses except for one chemist (pharmacy) on Kilbride Road. The Railway Cottage is infamous among the locals as a place where tourists from overseas stay for weeks or months at a time.

Paddy moves from his seat and sits down on the barstool next to me. Two other lads in the pub approach him to say hello and start a conversation. I do my best to mind my business and keep my nose in my book, but Paddy and his group make a couple attempts to include me in their conversation. I eventually get the hint and put my book down to engage in their banter. The three of them talk in-depth about Irish music and how it has impacted them throughout their lives. They take turns telling me to write down the names of all the artists and songs they mention. I am having fun serving the role as their notetaker for the afternoon. In the middle of the conversation, Paddy looks at me and tells me, “Never forget Paddy Finn!”

Thirty minutes passed and the people accompanying Paddy begin to leave Baggot’s to walk to the next pub directly across the street to continue their craic. Paddy continues talking to me and the patient bartender about music, sharing stories of when he played a few instruments in a couple small bands. He goes on to talk about traditional Irish tunes as he orders his fourth or fifth drink. Meanwhile, my first pint of Guinness is still mostly full and beginning to turn lukewarm. I ask him questions about how the town was different when he was a kid and about some of his earliest memories. Paddy goes on to explain his childhood and music, asking me still to take notes.

Paddy finishes his drink and announces he is walking to the Mill House. He asks me if I want to join him and more of his friends down the street. I thank him for the invitation and conversation but decline. He once again tells me, “Never forget Paddy Finn!” The bartender approaches me once Paddy leaves the building and says, “Don’t mind him, he’s no harm to anyone. If anyone ever bothers you, let me know.” I thank the bartender and feel more at ease as I finish off my iced tea. The place is not as lively without Paddy and his group present. I am beginning to feel restless and decide it’s time to get back outside.

I take off from the pub and walk to the Clara bog. I make sudden stops in random spots along the country road to enjoy the scents of nettle and moss. I don’t count my steps this time. The sun is beginning to make its descent as I stroll undisturbed along the bog boardwalk. The only sounds I can hear are the soles of my shoes impacting the path with each step I take. I get ready for another tranquil night alone when I notice I can’t recall what happened throughout the day. I ignore my concern and believe it’s only due to fatigue.

I forgot about Paddy Finn, but not on purpose. Brain fog invades my mind and memory for most of 2019. I don’t remember specific days or events unless I’m reminded. Fortunately for me, Paddy finds me on social media one year later. While messaging him, I suddenly remember that fortuitous day in Clara and the words he told me: “Never forget Paddy Fin!” I tell him via an online message that he did a good job of finding me. He responds, “The internet makes the world so small.” That it does, and I don’t think I’ll forget Paddy Finn again anytime soon!

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Sleepless Night at Kasba Dounia

October 30th, 2019

The stillness of the night and the absence of any light permeating the room wakes me up from my slumber. The room, atmosphere of the Kasba, room temperature, and the aroma were what I needed after driving 8 hours from Jebel Tazekka to the Kasba through the RN15 and RN13. For some reason unknown to me, I am unable to sleep beyond 30 minutes.

At 11:30 PM, I leave the room with my journal and pen in hand, prepared to write anything that comes to mind. I sit myself down at the table on the south-facing wall of the indoor courtyard, wearing my black and gold djellaba, and I click my pen. The next-door over creaks open a second later. “Drats,” I think to myself, “I woke someone up!” The owner of the Kasba meanders out of the room and invites himself to sit across from me.

In broken English, he asks me why I am awake so late and how I’m enjoying my stay. I respond in broken French stating, “Je souffre insomnie, mais je suis tres satisfaite. Le Kasba est magnifique.” He nods in agreement and proceeds to ask me questions in broken English, inquiring where I’m from, what brings me to Morocco, and where I’m traveling to next. I answer his questions reluctantly and eye him with suspicion. I am wondering what intentions he may have for being so friendly.

He notices my suspicion and says, “You teach me English. I need to practice.” I tilt my head back, arms crossed, saying, “D’accord, tu m’enseigner Francaise et le langue Arabe?” He nods, and we shake on it using our right hands. He introduces himself as Sam, and I share my name. Sam invites me to sit at the table on the roof and make myself comfortable. “I stay here. I am looking for my cat,” he says.

I take his suggestion and follow the stairs up to the roof. I find the table and chairs, which rests along the east-facing ledge, directly above the main entrance to the Kasba. For the first time since arriving in Morocco, I look up at the night sky. There’s no light pollution, no cars speeding by on the RN13 below, and no clouds in the air. I am in awe staring at the constellations that reside above me when I feel something pounce on my lap.

I look down and see a five-month-old kitten making itself at home on my lap. I hear the crunching of gravel underfoot as someone is approaching the table. “You found Simba!” I hear Sam say. “No,” I reply, “Simba found me.” I pass Simba to Sam, and he once again sits across from me. We continue in conversation, his English as elementary as my French.

Around 1:00 AM on October 31st, a drunken man pounds on the front door of the Kasba, me and Sam still in conversation on the roof. The man asks, yelling at the top of his lungs in Arabic if there is an open room. Sam responds, stating there are no rooms available, that he needs to walk an additional kilometer to the nearest town of Guers Tiaalaline. He turned to me and said, “that’s not true; you only one staying tonight.”

We watch the man zigzagged walk south on the RN13 towards Guers Tiaalaline when Sam says, “I hope he does not have a wife. Women are responsible for men. Men can act like kids, but women can’t get away with anything.” Curious, I ask Sam cultural questions such as: why there are a lot of stray cats and dogs in the cities, the prices of goods and services to locals versus tourists, how the government treats Berbers in all capacities, and how the healthcare system operates.

He struggles to find the words in English and resorts to French, which I struggle to comprehend fully. Sam finds my profile on Facebook and sends a friend request, saying, “so you can still teach me English, and I teach you French and Arabic.” I nod in agreement and thank Sam for the comfortable stay. He excuses himself to head downstairs with Simba chasing after him. I fall asleep in the chair on the roof.

Present Day

Sam is still operating the Kasba, which has been mostly occupied by locals and medical staff during COVID-19. Simba left the Kasba one day and has not returned. Practicing French and English over text is not the same as practicing in person; it’s too easy to resort to Google Translate for everything. I hope to someday return to Morocco to visit Sam and the Kasba once again, with a fresh perspective on the country and the places I visited on my manic journey across the globe.

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Introduction

Background And How I Got The Name ‘Lizard’

Everything worth doing starts with being scared.

— Art Garfunkel

The Very Beginning

I remember the very first road trip I took with my family to Chicago and New York City in the summer of 2008. I had brain surgery a year before and was still adjusting to what life was like without having the seizures and behavior problems brought on by a brain tumor. I was eight years old and telling my Mom where to go from the passenger’s seat while my brother Tom and sister Jessica was sitting in the back. Rihanna’s song “Umbrella” was playing on every radio station all summer long as we made it to the Windy City and over to the Big Apple.

I was hooked on traveling from that point on! We continued to take road trips as a family every summer around the United States until I started working and attending college at the age of 17. Since then, I primarily took solo camping and road trips around the state of New Mexico while completing my studies in Mechanical Engineering and English. Occasionally, I would take a trip to California, Canada, Colorado, or Mexico to change things up a bit and used the platform Couchsurfing to meet locals and find accommodation.

Fast-forward to March 2019, I went out to Ireland and met the Couchsurfing ambassador for Ireland and stayed at his cottage for five days while I was initially exploring the country. He was looking for people to watch over his cottage and dog in the countryside for the summer while he was going to be on vacation. I openly offered to come back and watch over his place while resting in a cafe outside the Cliffs of Moher, and I bought a plane ticket to return to Dublin before I left Ireland. May 2019 came around in the blink of an eye and I graduated from my undergraduate studies, quit my jobs, and packed my bags in a few days–eager to explore the world and feeling unsure at the time of what I wanted to do with my life just yet. I stayed put for four months in the quiet town of Clara, County Offaly (population is 2,000 people, just to give you an idea of how small it really is).

From September 2019 until February 2020, I lived on the road exploring mainland Europe, Morocco, and parts of Australia. I have been to a total of 16 countries on five continents, circumnavigated the globe, and traveled through 28 of the contiguous states in the USA. I am on a brief break from the long-distance travels during this time, and am using this blog as a way to jog my memory of past events that I want to share with you. The stories I share on here are a reflection of the strange situations I got myself into while traveling spontaneously. Maybe you’ll learn a thing or two, or maybe you’ll get a good laugh out of my many mishaps. Either way, thank you for joining me on my journey!

How I Got The Name Lizard

Lizard

I got the nickname of Lizard from my old workplace, Whole Foods Market. It was my first day on the job, November 13th, 2015. I was meeting all of my supervisors for the first time and getting acquainted with the regular customers and my coworkers. I was in a good mood all day. Near the end of my mid-day shift, I ran into a closing supervisor that I haven’t met yet. I walked up to him and said, “Hello, my name is Elizabeth. How are you?” He shook my hand and said in return, “You look like a Lizard to me. That’s going to be your name from now on.” One week later, he printed out a new name button for me that said “LIZ-ARD”. It was confirmed, and from that day on everyone knew me as “Lizard.”

Make Me a Sandwich!

It’s two in the morning on December 9th, 2011. Everyone in the house is asleep except for my brother’s friend. He keeps waking up my brother every 30 minutes with another command for him as if he’s the housemaid. I’m feeling anxious and unable to sleep until his friend leaves around 2:30 AM.

I often don’t have to travel very far to meet an unusual person or situation. I’ve experienced everything from middle-aged musicians busting out in aria while I scanned their groceries to overly-cocky classmates telling me I am “the perfect height to suck [their]…” without warning. (To my friend Lauren: if you’re reading this, you know who I’m talking about and can attest). Of all the strange people I’ve met, there is one in particular always takes the cake.

Vincent is a classmate I go to school with for grades 6th through 8th. He is about 5’5″, only a couple inches taller than me, and is as rotund as he is tall. He wears eyeglasses that make him look bug-eyed, a pair of black combat boots he proudly claims can “smash in a face with no effort” and is, in the poetic words of Weird Al Yankovic, “whiter than sour cream.”

For two months straight in 7th grade, he asks me every day to be his Valentine. Every day I tell him no, that I’m not interested. Two days before Valentine’s Day, he forgets about me and starts to obsess over one of my friends. I do feel bad for her, but I’m relieved he is no longer on my case. I forget about Vincent until the next school year.

It’s Friday evening on December 9th, 2011, and my brother is having a friend over to stay the night. I decide to go with my mom and brother to pick up his friend, any excuse to leave the house for a couple of minutes. We show up at his friend’s house to pick this mysterious fella up. When I see who it is, all the blood drains from my face in fear and anxiety. “How can my brother befriend him? How did this happen?” I ask myself as I fidget with my hands in the back passenger seat.

Vincent sandwiches himself between me and my brother, taking up the middle seat in the back. Without hesitation, Vincent starts playing Breaking Benjamin from his Blackberry phone on full blast. He has no regard of anyone else in the car. My mom tells him, “Nice to meet you.” After a second’s pause, he says, “Oh yeah, you too.” The entire car ride home, I lean my head against the window with my eyes closed. Hoping this is a nightmare and not reality.

We return to the house and I distract myself with my algebra homework on the family computer. I find any excuse to not be around my brother and his friend. All is going well for the first hour. Vincent tries to grab my attention by asking for my opinion on political issues and music genres. I tune him out and hyper-focus on my studies. I’m in a state of flow completing all my assignments. Then, what seemed out of nowhere, a hand snatches the computer mouse I am using.

I look behind me to see Vincent is standing super close to me on my left, I am still sitting in the office chair. He starts opening up random YouTube links, telling me about all his favorite music. I shrink in the chair, leaning out of the right side and dissociating. I am in slight shock over his lack of manners and over the sudden invasion of space. For the next 15 minutes, he continues having full control of the family computer. My brother, now annoyed Vincent is paying a lot of attention to me, tries to get him to play a videogame in the living room.

I am relieved when my brother finally convinces Vincent to play videogames. I retreat to my room to calm down from the sensory overload I am experiencing. Despite my efforts to de-escalate, my nerves are still on edge. I worry about the possibility of Vincent bursting in at any moment and invading my space. All throughout the night, the only sound I can hear is Vincent’s congested-sounding voice echoing off the tile flooring. I try my best to fall asleep when I begin to overhear their conversation.

I overhear Vincent tell my brother, “Hey! Wake up! Go make me a ham and cheese sandwich.” My brother tiringly tells him he will not make a sandwich. It is now 1:00 AM and the house is quiet for the first time since Vincent’s arrival. I begin to drift off when I hear him in the living room ask my brother, “Can I have a present from under your tree?” My brother tells him, no, but Vincent insists. “Come on! It’s almost Christmas, give me a present from under your tree. ” My brother says no again, this time more assertively. My brother falls asleep and the house is quiet once again.

Everyone wakes up again around 2:15 AM to the sound of a loud car engine rumbling outside in the cul-de-sac. My mother emerges from her room to see what’s going on. Vincent claims that he is leaving and his mother is waiting outside to pick him up. I return to my bed and finally fall asleep, happy to know he is going back to his home. He leaves without a sandwich and without any of the family’s Christmas presents.

After that strange night, I haven’t had any interaction with Vincent. My brother did not invite him over to the house ever again. His actions back then did instill a weariness in me towards people in my age group that still lingers a bit to this day. Vincent, if you’re reading this post, I hope you’re doing well.

The Fear of Dying Alone

August 11th, 2017

Today marks my third full day spent in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. It is 7:00 in the morning, and I have barely woken and put on my clothes when I glance outside to see a black 2010 Toyota Corolla outside my host’s house, the driver honking the horn loudly. I stumble down the stairs with a tote bag packed for the day when I run into my host from Couchsurfing.

He has a confused expression on his face since he doesn’t know who could be at his house so early in the morning. I don’t have time to tell him that the person in the car is waiting for me or how I met them. He appears to be slightly hungover from drinking too much of his home-made craft beer from the night before. I wave goodbye to him and tell him I’ll be back closer to 5:00 in the evening. He raises his hand weakly in acknowledgment as I close and lock the door behind me.

The lady sitting in the driver’s seat is from Iran, and I met her a couple of days before while I was meandering around downtown Calgary alone. She found me on Couchsurfing and sent me an invite to join her for a day trip out to Banff National Park. Her name on her profile says Nicky Big. She is an athletic woman in her 50s who’s maybe five feet two inches tall, and her real name isn’t Nicky.

It takes us 90 minutes of speeding down the highway at 110 kilometers per hour to reach the small tourist town of Banff. The small town has a lot of charm to it and reminds me of Ouray, Colorado. Nicky and I both drink our coffee in silence as we stare off into the distance looking at the mountain peaks that are across the lake from Bow Falls, sitting on a park bench.

Rocky Mountains, as viewed from the bench Nicky and I sat at.

Another two hours pass without a word exchanged. We drive down the road to the Johnston Falls Canyon trail and hike to both the upper and lower Johnston Falls. We climb down a rock face, and we rest at one of the falls for around 30 minutes. I don’t know what is running through Nicky’s mind, but I find solace in having the time to enjoy new sights and company without feeling the pressure of having to make small talk out of politeness.

On the drive back around 3:00 that afternoon, I notice that the sky is a little less blue than it was this morning, and smelling of burning wood. The forest fires in Jasper National Park made national headlines for the entirety of the week. Today is the first day I take notice of it since I am no longer in the city lost among the skyscrapers.

What seems out of nowhere, from my perspective, Nicky tells me that she is afraid she will die alone. I am drifting away in thought and staring out the window when I ask her why she believes that. She sighs heavily before telling me, “You’re too young to understand. When you get older, you will know what I mean. I am getting old. I’ve never been married, and I’ve never had kids. Who’s going to take care of me when I’m old and dying?”

I don’t have a reply or retort prepared to address her question, so I stay silent and let her continue her tangent. She continues, “What you need to know, Elizabeth is that ALL men are pigs. It’s true! One thing I learned while traveling the world alone is that men will take any opportunity they can to see up your skirt.”

People lining up to view lower Johnston falls, Banff National Park.

I am beginning to feel a bit apprehensive and comment to her, “I wouldn’t mind dying alone. It would beat having to spend my life with people who make me feel alone.” She ruminates on my statement for a minute. In a mere second, her mood changes completely. For the first time since I met her, I see her smile and unclench her jaw.

I’m glad to see that she’s a bit happier now, but now I’m feeling a bit discombobulated over what just occurred. For the last 45 minutes of the drive, she tells me the origins of Shiraz wine, the history of blueprints, her work as a mechanical engineer, and advice on how to travel in Iran or the UAE if I ever visit. She drops me off at my host’s place and leans out her car window to tell me, “You’re a lovely young woman. Go find yourself a husband and start a family before it’s too late.” I chuckle and tell her, “will do!” before she drives away.

It’s now 5:30 in the evening. I am relieved to be back, as so are my host and his housemate from Sydney, Australia. The two of them welcome me with a pint of the host’s home-made brew, and we proceed outside to sit at the picnic table in his backyard. The anchorman on the local news stated this morning that the aurora borealis will be visible in Calgary tonight.

We sit outside discussing everything from the weird wildlife in Australia to Breaking Bad in New Mexico and the dominating presence of the oil industry in Calgary. All of us relax in his backyard for hours, waiting to see the lights that never arrive. What’s supposed to be a clear night sky is now clouded over by the smoke wafting from the forest fires. I’m not disappointed at all. I am happily distracted, engaging in conversation about travel and world events with my host and his roommate. I forget the events that transpired until two and a half years later.

Afterward

I began to write this piece while I was lounging in a book cafe in Adelaide, South Australia, in January 2020. The fires on Kangaroo Island were raging still, and cases of COVID-19 recently appeared in the town of Port Augustus. Somehow, those recent events jogged my memory of the one spontaneous day trip I took with Nicky Big in Canada in August 2017. As of today, I’m neither in Canada or Australia. I still don’t fear the idea of dying alone, and I’m thankful that I am not alone during this time.

Standing on the glass floor at the top of the Calgary Tower

Check in At the Czech Inn

I make it through customs and immigration and am on the bus headed to Dublin city center by 7:30PM. It’s too late to catch the last train to my host’s place in Clara, County Offaly for the night and I don’t have an alternative accommodation booked. I hop off with my one bag of luggage somewhere along the bridge on O’Connell street and cross the River Liffey. I don’t know where my end destination is, but I start walking towards the trains station.

Every few minutes, I look behind me to ensure that I’m not being followed. For the past month my ex had sporadically stalked me around the university campus in Albuquerque. He didn’t take the breakup in February well and started acting a bit strange after I rejected his proposal, which happened two days after I broke things off. We originally planned on travelling to Ireland together, and to my knowledge he still had his plane ticket. I don’t know if he managed to get on the plane, but I am prepared to defend myself in case he decided to follow me out to Ireland for the week.

The sidewalk is bustling with groups of young people dawdling about under the dim street lighting and reeking of booze. I come across a door that said Abigail’s Backpacker Hostel and quickly duck inside to ask the fellow at reception if there’s a bunk available. Fortunately, there is one top bunk left in the ladies’ dorm on the fourth floor overlooking the River Liffey. I quickly pay up, race up the stairs with my bag in my arms, and burst through the door–eager to lay down and rest.

There’s no one else in the room except for one other lady sitting on a bottom bunk wearing fishnet stockings and applying her makeup. I collapse on the bunk bed, feeling relieved that I found myself a place to stay. The lady in the other bunk starts making small talk. She introduces herself as Jenna and invites me to join her and her group for the night. “It’ll be good craic,” she says, and I let out a little giggle; I completely forgot I’m in Ireland until I heard the word craic.

I decide to join her and soon we are meandering through the Temple Bar area. Jenna tells me how she’s originally from County Clare but is currently working in New Zealand making a living as a plastic surgeon. “In New Zealand, it is almost impossible for anyone to sue doctors, even for malpractice,” she says. I am both fascinated and intrigued by her experiences and profession. Before I could get into a deep conversation with her, we begin to climb a narrow wooden staircase upstairs to a place called the Czech Inn.

The place is almost full, but Jenna leads me to two chairs that are still open at a table resting underneath a window that overlooks the stone road below. Jenna introduces me to the four people already sitting at the table. I don’t catch all the names, but there are John and his boyfriend as well as Sean and her girlfriend. For the next three hours, all of us are laughing, eating, and engaging in conversation. We talk about everything from bad tattoos to aspirations and the hours fly by.

Another two people arrive at the table and join in as though they were there the entire time. I buy everyone at the table a pint as a thank you to Jenna for inviting me out for the evening. I look down at my phone again to see that the time is now 1:00 in the morning. I excuse myself and get up to head back to the hostel for the night as I haven’t slept since I left Albuquerque and the jet lag is catching up to me. Before I leave, Jenna tells me she has an early morning flight and won’t see me in the morning. I thank her again and tell her it was a pleasure meeting her.

I wake up the next morning at 8:00 and see that her bunk is empty, and the bed is made. She came back sometime after I fell asleep and left before I woke up–what a life she lives! I haul my bag back downstairs and enjoy a coffee, staring into space as I contemplate my vacation plans, no longer fearing the possibility of my ex following me. Suddenly I feel my phone vibrate and look down at it to see that my good friend Brooke is calling me. I haven’t heard from her in a few months and I answer the phone.

While talking and catching up with her, I look up the Czech Inn on Facebook to see that the place was tagged in a post with a photo. Examining the photo closely, I see that I am in it and feel tempted to tag myself but then decide not to. Heading to the train station to meet my host from Clara, I walk away from the hostel feeling like I have returned home from a trip to the USA instead of like a tourist visiting Ireland for the first time.

Knee Rub on an Airplane

December 3rd, 2019

I am sitting in the middle seat sandwiched between a guy from Germany to my left, taking the window seat, and a lady from London to my right who has the aisle seat. I’m super sweaty from wearing five layers of clothing and feel rather disheveled. I make polite small talk with both people, asking them about their travels.

The plane takes off from Dublin and begins its journey to Heathrow airport in London. As the flight continues, the guy from Germany falls asleep leaning on the window, I read my book, and the lady from London reads her e-book.

Halfway through the journey, the airplane experiences some turbulence and the guy’s hand, palm down on the seat, slides a bit under my left leg. I don’t want to touch his hand, yet I don’t feel comfortable letting his hand reside under my leg. I cross my left leg over my right, folding myself in to the center of the seat and I continue reading my book.

The plane finally makes it to the landing strip and I am beginning to feel relieved and relaxed when I suddenly feel something warm on my left knee. I disregard it initially, believing I was just overheating again from wearing so much clothing. However, as the plane is driving down the strip toward the terminal, I suddenly notice this pocket of warmth moving back and forth over my knee.

Looking down from my book I see a hand, and quickly look over to my left to see the guy staring at me. His pupils are enlarged so much, it is hard to tell what color his eyes are. My pupils are dilated, too. Not out of interest, but out of surprise and fear.

I am not sure what to do, I’ve never been harassed on an airplane before. It was a bit late to begin raising any hassle with the air crew on the plane, so I decide to ignore him and wait. The plane comes to a complete halt at the first terminal of London’s Heathrow airport.

Everyone begins to unbuckle their seat belts, and I loudly slap his hand off my knee. His face turns as red as his ginger hair, he quickly looks down, bites his lower lip and wrings his right hand out of pain.

All at once, everyone on board rises from their seats to start grabbing their carry-on luggage. The guy turns to me at this point and has the audacity to then introduce himself, right as everyone is beginning to disembark the plane. He tells me his name is Hane, that he’s a secondary school teacher from Munich, and that it was a pleasure meeting me. He proceeds to ask me where I’m headed to and I simply tell him, “Definitely not Germany!”

He laughs and excuses himself to join the queue leaving the plane. I am in no hurry to leave since Simon and I have a seven-hour layover in the airport. I make sure to wait until almost everyone is off the plane. I want to leave with Simon and ensure myself that I won’t meet Hane again on our way to catch our connecting flight.

Black Ink And Flailing Limbs

November 4, 2019, in the town of Essaouira, Morocco.

I open my journal for the first time in five days and begin to write down my thoughts and observations about Morocco so far. There are four of us sitting at the kitchen table in Jamil’s place. Jamil, our host and tour guide around Essaouira, is allowing Simon and I to stay in two of the three rooms in the flat below his.

He invites me over for evening tea with him and his friend after exploring Essaouira for the day, and I accepted, leaving Simon to watch videos on his own downstairs. I’m wearing my black and gold djellaba, and Jamil and his law school friend also wear their djellabas. Nickie, the fourth person, is the odd one out wearing a spaghetti-strap tank top and jean shorts small enough that her butt spills out and over them.

Nickie asks me where I’m from and how I like Morocco. I share for a few seconds and politely ask her the same–I want to know more about my flat mate. Instead of reciprocating, she shuts her laptop and says she has office hours to attend to downstairs in the third bedroom of the flat we’re all sharing.

Up to this point, I don’t know much about her. From what I understand, she’s around 35 in age, from America, frequently travels to India and the Middle East, and she used to have a Moroccan husband. She stomps her way down the stairs, and the three of us remaining in the kitchen start talking.

We get to chatting about the types of people we meet through hosting them from Couchsurfing and Airbnb. I struggle to codeswitch between French and English and throw in the occasional Arabic word. Jamil and his friend both politely correct me when I make a mistake. He has just finished pouring mint tea with sugar into three small glass cups when we hear a thunderous noise coming from the staircase.

Nickie bursts in and blocks the doorway with her entire body. She’s staring at the wall between me and Jamil as she begins yelling, almost on the verge of screaming. She exclaims, “How dare you talk to me like that! I waited for you for three hours while you were in town with your friends, and now you bring this bitch up here with you?!,” she points her finger at me and continues, “Next time I’m going to call the cops!”

I’m now wide-eyed and flushed. I don’t understand the situation at hand or why I am suddenly being pulled into the drama. I look down at my journal to see that I have been writing “oeoeoeoe” over and over. She storms her way back through the door and slams it shut behind her.

Jamil begins talking to me, telling me more about her. He goes on to tell me while drinking his tea that she was evicted from her last Airbnb place and had no money to stay anywhere. He makes it sound like he pities her and is allowing her to stay for free. I begin to question his relationship with her. Why would he let her, and American lady, stay at his flat for free when earlier he claimed that he barely makes enough money to support him and his six siblings back home in the Sahara?

A few minutes later, she returns and once more blocks the doorway with her body. She stares at Jamil and shouts, “And don’t you dare think about sleeping with her too!” My shoulders tense, and I try to fixate my attention on my journal, but I glance up for a second and lock eyes with hers by accident. She says to me, “Do you know he has sex with minors?” I give her no verbal response, but write on my paper, “You’re certainly not a minor.”

Jamil finally gets up and walks to her telling her that they can talk it out in the next room. She loudly exclaims, “Don’t you fucking touch me!” I begin to write rapidly and break the tip of my new black pen. The ink bleeds all over my hands and the paper. At the doorway, Nickie throws punches and kicks at Jamil. Her fists and knees repeatedly impact Jamil’s face and upper body and Jamil refuses to fight back. His friend moves to stand between them, attempting to break up the fight.

Abruptly, Nickie once again looks at me and asks, “Elizabeth, honey, do you think you should stay here or leave?” with a fake smile plastered on her face. I look at her with complete apathy and say, “I’m indifferent,” and resume writing with my broken pen. She then says, “I think it’s best if you leave.” I quickly close my journal and slowly walk out of the room heading back down to the flat downstairs. I hear more yelling and quarreling commence above me as I make my descent.

So many questions race through my mind. So much has been said and exchanged between Nickie and Jamil in the upstairs flat, and I can’t make any sense of Nickie or her behavior. It suddenly occurs to me though why Jamil was restless and anxious while showing me and Simon around Essaouira today. The sounds of their fighting permeate throughout the building for most of the night. I quietly crawl into bed with a small pocketknife under my pillow, in case she decides to attack me next.

The Happiest Man In Cork

“There’s no place like home,” I said to myself while sitting in the Shandon Arms pub in the city of Cork, Ireland. It was 6:00 in the evening, and I had all of my bags in tow. I plopped down on the only empty sofa in the place, which resided under the television that is opposite of the bar. It was big enough to seat six comfortably, but no one thought to sit there. The bartender handed me a pint of Smithwick’s as the Shandon Bells sang their melodious tune.

The Shandon Bells and Tower

I busted out my pens and Christmas cards from Amsterdam; eager to write my holiday sentiments, but my mind struggled to find the right words. A man from the next table over approached me and asked me how I am. He knew from the second I started talking that I wasn’t a local. He asked if he can sit with me, and I made room for him and his pint at the sofa.

Ten minutes of conversation later, I asked him what his name was. He said something along the lines of “bird,” but I had a feeling that I misheard him. Before I could ask him what his name was again, he declared, “I am the happiest man in Cork! I am 72 and have no regrets!” He excused himself to use the leithris (toilets) before I had the chance to ask him any follow-up questions. What makes him the happiest man in Cork? What are his secrets to living a long and happy life?

Meanwhile, his friends at the next table over ask me if I’m from Canada. I laugh and say, “No, I’m from the U.S., New Mexico. Are all of ye from Cork?” One of the fellas at the back towards the window said in return, “You speak really good English! We’re all from Cork.” The happiest man in Cork returned to the table. Him and his eight friends all shared a good laugh whenever I used the words “craic,” “slainte,” or “tog go bog e.” It was getting close to 10:00pm, and I had to excuse myself for the night. Before I left, the happiest man gave me a hug and told me to meet him at the same place the next evening at 8:00 outside. I agreed then walked five minutes down the street to the Kinlay Hostel for the night.

Christmas tree and Ferris wheel in Cork, near main library

The next night comes along. I walk back to the Shandon Arms pub at 7:50 with all of my bags in hand again. At 8:00 exact, an older man approached me. I couldn’t recognize him at all, and I was beginning to feel a little unsafe with how close he was standing to me. He asks me if I’m doing okay and if I am ready to go. It donned on me then that it was the same friendly man from the night before. I always forget what people look like, but I never forget voices or mannerisms.

We walked side by side through town, and I listened to his stories of how Cork as a city has grown and changed over the years. We crossed the river Lee and a family of coots swam downstream under the moonlight. Every time he mentioned dancing, which was very often, he would shake his hips and shoulders with his arms in a two-hand-hold dancing position, and enthusiastically say, “boom boom!”

We arrived at his neighborhood pub, Nana’s, after 15 minutes of walking. Everyone at all of the tables and all of the barmen knew him and greeted him immediately. It wasn’t long before the band started playing 50s rock and roll music and a group of people, including the happiest man, started dancing. Twenty minutes and one pint later, he looks at me and asks, “boom boom?” I throw up my hands and say, “boom boom,” and he pulls me out onto the dance floor.

Coots swimming around The Lough, Cork

For the next two hours, I was getting spun around by him and five of his friends. I didn’t know the first thing about ballroom dancing. I kept pace and rhythm by using the box step in swing when dancing with someone, and used the basic eight step in tango when I wanted to switch partners. I eventually got to learning the names of everyone I danced with, and was begged to go back out on the dance floor every time I stopped for a break.

Before I left for the evening, I asked him for his name again. I pressed down on my tragus to help me drown out the surrounding noises as he told me his name and address. His name was Bernard, and every Saturday evening he goes out dancing with his friends at Nana’s. I scribbled down his address before I forgot, I wanted to send him postcards in the future. I put my pen and paper away, he smiled, and had one last dance with him and his friend Andrew to a few Christmas songs.

In the end, I never learned his secrets to living a long and happy life. Perhaps the secret is to not think about it at all. If you ever find yourself in the city of Cork on a Saturday night, drop down to Nana’s and meet Bernard himself. He might tell you about all of his hitchhiking adventures, how Cork has changed over time, or share a dance with you. Maybe, if you get lucky, the happiest man in Cork might give you some of his secrets to living a long life full of happiness.

Throwback Piece: Friends In Unexpected Places

I originally wrote this piece for a college course earlier this year. The events that transpire in the post occurred in 2018. I still look back to this experience and laugh about it every now and again.

It is a beautifully warm summer day in the middle of July 2018. The weather reached an all time high at 102 degrees Fahrenheit. Everyone in and around Albuquerque had the chance to avoid being inside, and I had no chance but to avoid the outdoors altogether. Pent up indoors all day at my job, I am more than thankful to be relieved from my dull duties for the day.

I randomly receive a phone call from a number coming from Las Vegas, Nevada as I am travelling down University Boulevard heading back home for the day. I think nothing of it and continued on. I arrive at my apartment am greeted with an unfamiliar sight. A lady with long and straight dark brown hair, thick-rimmed hipster glasses, and wearing an oversized black coat greets me by standing in my designated parking spot at my apartment complex.

This unfamiliar lady wore a puzzled expression that gives off the impression she is lost. Her brows furrowed, mouth agape, and both hands buried in her coat pockets, she looks super confused. I pull up to the spot, roll down my car window, and ask this strange woman how I can help her. In a very loud and rushed manner she quickly states, “HelloareyouElizabeth? IamSamanthafromCouchsurfing.How’syourdaygoing?” I am taken aback by how loudly and quickly she spoke in contrast with her timid outward appearance. I stutter something along the lines of, “Yes, I am Elizabeth. It’s a pleasure to meet you, Samantha. I am about to visit the Sandia Peak and go on a hike. Care to join me?” Without a moment’s hesitation, she eagerly jumps into the passenger side of my car as if this is the day trip she has been waiting to take all of her life.

As she sits down in the passenger seat and gets comfortable, slowly and carefully fastening her seatbelt, dressed as though she is ready to head into the arctic, I can’t help but notice a slight bulge in her left-front jacket pocket. I am initially intrigued over the fact that she is dressed in winter clothes when it is mid-July in the great southwest. It then clicked with me that she was the person calling from Las Vegas, Nevada.

Gradually my attention goes back to focusing on her pocket. The fact that she was super careful when putting on the seat belt slightly confuses me. I eventually come to the conclusion it had to do with what’s in her pocket. What could possibly in that pocket? I disregard my question for the time being and reason with myself that the object might be an orange, stress ball, apple, or some other spherical object of minimal significance.

In two minutes time with the windows rolled down, we are heading onto the I-40 eastbound, cruising in fifth gear. Before I can embarrass myself by asking her what was in her pocket, Samantha quickly and loudly, to the point where she is louder than the sound of the traffic right outside, says, “I apologize in advance but I have severe anxiety. I am super nervous
to be here. I’ve never traveled alone before and I have to keep on talking. If I don’t stop talking things are going to come out of both ends.”

In response to the plethora of personal information she just shared with me, I say, “It’s okay, and I understand completely. I used to teach ski lessons to a lady around fourteen years of age who used the same coping mechanisms to deal with her anxiety.” Right as I finish my sentence I see that bulge in her pocket move quickly and suddenly. This unexpected sight surprises me enough to once again wonder what lurks in her pocket. What could possibly be in there?

The five minutes that pass after we drive by the ski area completely changes my perceptions of my house guest for the night. Before this point, she was preoccupied with talking about her past, her supposedly crazy ex-girlfriend, why she came to New Mexico, and her current issues regarding finding employment. Right after we drive past the ski area, she randomly asks me why I accepted her request following up with the statement that she might be a serial killer for all I knew.

I sarcastically comment in return that serial killers don’t confess that they are serial killers. Unfortunately, my response is greeted by her silence. All of a sudden her face turns as red as a ripe tomato. I also notice that her hand is now gently squeezing the mysterious item in her pocket. In a brief moment of silence, when there are no noises going on inside the car aside from the sound of the breeze flowing through the car, I hear her quietly whisper to her pocket, “Shhhh.” Once again, I ask to myself, “What could be in that pocket of hers?”

Another fifteen minutes of her non-stop talking pass by in the car before we reached our final destination: Sandia Peak. I am relieved to finally have a breath of fresh air and more than two feet between me and Samantha. Meandering around the Dakota sandstone formation, I marveled at all of the pockets formed in the rock through mechanical weathering due to water. Meanwhile, Samantha continues to talk about her personal issues, how she never travels solo except for now, and continues to talk about her work problems.

We finally make it to the ultimate lookout point on the mountain, Kiwanis Cabin. Since the sun is still out, I decide to not take the risk of climbing up to the roof to hang out. I briefly explain to Samantha how the stone cabin was built by the CCC and its significance to the area. She simply nods in response and goes on a ten minute tangent explaining how beautiful the view is. Suddenly, she says, “This would be a good time for you to meet my best friend.” I initially thought she meant that she was going to call up her friend via phone call. After five seconds of observation and contemplation, I notice she reaches her hand into her pocket. Is this it? Will I finally get to learn what’s in her pocket?


She slowly and carefully puts her hand in her pocket, making sure to treat the object in her pocket with great care. I notice that her pocket gets a little wet while she is tugging what looks like a plastic bag out of her pocket. I am further perplexed. What is she pulling out of her pocket? A few moments later, she pulls out a small clear plastic container sealed within a plastic
bag. Inside this bag was the biggest living goldfish I have ever seen in captivity. The fish barely fit into its habitat that it is in currently. There are no air holes in the container or bag. How in the world has this fish survived the road trip without dying of shock?

Calmly, I ask her if her fish is her best friend and how long she has had the fish for, all while she is unzipping the bag and taking off the lid to the container. Over the course of five minutes she explains that yes, her fish is her best friend and that she grabbed the fish five days ago in Columbus, Ohio and is taking it with her to Las Vegas.

She goes on further to say, “I took this from a petstore out there. My mother’s funeral was the day before and had no one to talk to. When I found this fish in the store, I had a feeling we were going to be friends. So I took him from the store while no one was looking. You can’t put a price on friendship! Sometimes, you find friends in unexpected places.” Suddenly, a lot more made sense about Samantha and who she really is. To her lengthy explanation, I simply say, “Indeed. I wasn’t expecting to find your best friend in your pocket. Don’t experience that every day!” To that response, she laughs for two minutes straight and then she thanks me for hosting her and her friend, and that I will have a place to stay if I find myself in Las Vegas someday. I never took her up on her offer.

Coffee Shops and Conspiracy Theories With Pim

We left Paris in a hurry. It is 9:30 in the morning on November 16th, and we are on the road once again, driving on the A1 towards Lille. The goal for the day is to make it to the Netherlands before the sun sets. It is impossible to discern day from night. For the past week, all of Western Europe has been experiencing freak weather including snow in Paris and flooding in Venice, Italy. I can’t remember the last day we saw the sun.

We drive past Lille, take the E17 around Ghent and Antwerp, and then the A27 towards Ultrecht before we stop for a break at a petrol station outside Bunnik along the A12. Out of nowhere, Simon recalls his friend Pim, who he used to buy hash off of when he lived in Amsterdam twenty-something years ago. I leave the car to briskly walk around the petrol station parking lot while Simon calls his friend. When I return to the van, I see Simon has a huge smile plastered to his red face as he asks me, “Guess where we’re going?”

I type in the coordinates for the small town of Hengelo and we’re on our way once again. Simon gives me a basic history of his friendship with Pim. Pim had one bad LSD trip 30 years back and has since been living off of disability money. “I must warn you,” Simon states, “Pim has very unusual views on life, but he’s absolutely harmless.” I begin questioning if Pim is as safe as Simon makes him out to be.

One hour passes on the road and we approach the small town of Hengelo. I find myself in awe of the tidiness of the town and the quaint old brick houses that are in perfect condition. Simon says, “This can’t be right…Hengelo is right off the motorway and near the border of Germany” Sure enough, I put in the wrong Hengelo, but fortunately the correct one outside of Enschede is only a 45 minute drive away.

Before we arrive in the second Hengelo, Simon asks me how I like the Netherlands so far. I simply tell him, “I like it. I’ve never seen so much flat land before, even parts of Texas have more variety than this. But, it’s beautiful and I’m impressed by how tidy everything is.” He simply agreed, chuckles a bit, and tells me the meaning of the word “Netherlands”, which means “lowlands” in Dutch.

We arrive in Hengelo, and I meet the infamous Pim for the first time! He is around 68 inches tall, lanky, straight gray-blonde hair that goes halfway down his back, wears baggy clothes, and smells of nothing but old tobacco and marijuana. He briefly greets us into his apartment, which has clean floors but the tabletops are filled with a colorful assortment of wrappers and empty lighters. Just as quick as we went inside we left again, following Pim’s lead as he directed us to the nearest coffee shop.

I soon learned that the term “coffee shop” means an establishment that legally sells marijuana in conjunction with a bar or coffee stand. We first head into the Moby Dick coffee shop, where Simon buys enough weed and tobacco to keep himself entertained for the rest of the week. We then walk to the Innocent music venue, where Pim volunteers his time behind the bar. Everyone in the small village are looking our way as me and Simon walk through town, taking great notice of who we are.

Upon entering the venue, Pim is greeted as if he is a town celebrity. Everyone in the place knows him well, and he retreats to the smoking section of the place with Simon, which is separated from the rest through a series of glass doors. Cheap dance remix music is playing on full blast as Simon and Pim got to talking and socializing in the next room while I stay alone in the bar section. There is no one else in the room except for the bartender, who’s falling asleep behind the bar counter after smoking too much with his friends a few minutes earlier in the other room.

I go to order a beer from the bartender by saying, “May ik alsjeblieft even pils?”, which are the only words I know by memory in Dutch. To my surprise then disappointment, the bartender carried on a conversation with me in English the entire time.  “So much for trying to learn Dutch from the old naked Dutch couples in all of those naturist camps in France and Spain over the past six weeks!,” I say to myself under my breath with my back turned to the bartender.

November 17th

I wake up at the crack of dawn on November 17th to Simon and Pim engaging in loud conversation; both of them are stoned out of their minds. I hear them reminisce about the good old days of running various drug bus businesses over the years and complaining about how difficult it is to be a squatter today in the Netherlands. I make myself a cup of coffee while I overhear Pim loudly exclaim, “George Bush! He and Osama Bin Laden were best friends, news came out today.”

Simon is unresponsive to Pim’s latest conspiracy theory. Simon takes another drag off of his spliff while Pim quickly turns around to face me as I’m standing in the kitchen, coffee in hand. He stares me down with his bloodshot eyes, looking at me and wearing an expression of contempt as he yells, “George Bush!” I don’t want to get caught up in political conspiracy theories. I chug down my coffee, throw on my raincoat, scarf and shoes, taking his invitation to discuss George Bush as my cue to leave.

For the next 90 minutes, I walk a total of six kilometers in 40 degree weather. A lot of people look at me as I rush past them on the bike path through town, my walking speed being closer to a jog than a casual stroll. A smile is glued to my face as I am enjoying the scenery and getting lost in my thoughts. This is the first time I’ve had some time alone in about two weeks.

I return to Pim’s place and walk through the door to hear Pim at it again with another conspiracy theory. He goes on a five minute tangent explaining to Simon how the little blonde-haired boy wearing a blue shirt on the cover of his pack of smokes is Vladimir Putin rolling cigarettes for his father as a kid. As usual, Simon ignores Pim’s statements and mindlessly rolls himself another cigarette.

For the rest of the day, Simon and Pim continue with their usual banter about how things were ‘back in the day’. I stick to my corner of the room, trying to get myself interested in the plot of the book Many Dimensions by Charles Williams. Every time there was a ten second period of silence, Pim would break it by once again exclaiming, “George Bush!” only to have his remarks greeted by more silence.

It is nearing the end of the day and I retreat to my sleeping bag, which neighbors the couch Simon and Pim have been lounging on all day. I soon learn that this move was a mistake. Instead of Pim yelling his remarks to the wall, he now tries to stare my down while yelling, “George Bush!”. Every time he tries to get me involved, I raise my book up to my eyes to cover them and pretend to be super enthralled by Charles William’s written words.

Simon wakes me up at 6:30 on the morning of November 18th. Both of us are equally eager to leave. Simon wants to leave because he wants to get to Groningen to meet his friends. I want to leave so that I can get away from conspiracy-theory Pim. Never before have I been more excited to leave a place super early in the morning. We leave Pim’s place without saying goodbye, and we are once again on the road, continuing what Simon calls ‘a bus-man’s holiday’.

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